Florida’s Forgotten Coast

Bald cypress trees loomed all around us, dangling Spanish moss like sad puppeteers. We cut through the water in a small touring boat past several alligators, lying motionless on a log. When he wasn’t pointing out the many gators, snakes, turtles and birds, our tour guide was telling us – in a thick southern accent – about the surrounding wilderness. (It was here, we learned among other things, that the first Tarzan movie was filmed.)

We were on a riverboat tour at Wakulla Springs Lodge and State Park, one of many state parks located along Florida’s “Forgotten Coast.” The park is home to one of the largest and deepest fresh water springs in the world. (It pumps out 150,000-600,000 gallons of water a minute.) Since the area around the river is swampy, our tour guide explained, the area is not good for building, farming or logging and so it’s pretty much been left alone. “Which is great,” he said, “because there are very few places left like this – untouched throughout time.”

Tours are $8 for adults and last 40-60 minutes. The park also offers a 30-minute glass bottom-boat tour for the same price, but they are only available when the water is clear, usually in late winter or early spring. Other activities in the park include swimming, snorkeling, and hiking. There is no campground here, but visitors can stay in the Wakulla Springs Lodge. Built in the 1930s, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Rates start at $95 a night.

More Parks

There are plenty of other parks along the Forgotten Coast, however, that do offer camping. And at $18-24 per night, it’s both a fun and affordable way to see the area. Here are some other favorites:

St. Joseph’s Peninsula State Park – Located on a long, sandy peninsula that stretches out into the Gulf of Mexico, St. Joseph’s offers a completely different experience from Wakulla Springs. Popular activities here include swimming, snorkeling and fishing, but I was happy simply watching the sun set over the ocean. We stayed in the campground, which has nice, private sites, but you can also reserve a cabin or stay at one of the primitive sites in the wilderness preserve.

St. George Island State Park – Located near Apalachicola, St. George is another popular beach park, so plan in advance if you want to stay here. We tried to get a spot but it was full. Still, with nine miles of beaches, it’s a nice place for a day trip. Admission for the day is $6 per vehicle carrying 2-8 people.

Ochlockonee River State Park – Like Wakulla Springs, Ochlockonee River is a little bit north of the coastline, but well worth the short drive. Here, we rented a canoe ($7/half-day) and did some paddling. It’s a mix of fresh and salt water, so fishing is really popular as well. And, of course, all of the parks are beautiful. Florida’s state parks system, now in its 75^th year, is the only two-time Gold Medal winner for best park service in the nation and once you visit them, it’s easy to see why.