Bisbee, Arizona

Bisbee, a former boomtown, once known as “The Queen of the Copper Camps,” is about to blow up again – this time as a tourist destination. It already attracts over 60,000 visitors a year, but still retains that small-town charm, with friendly people, locally-owned businesses and a fun, funky vibe. Go now while it’s still quaint and affordable.

We rolled into town just after dusk on AZ-80. The lights of Old Bisbee were shining in a bright cluster beneath a big, illuminated “B,” which rests atop one of the rust-colored hillsides. This part of town was built in and on the slopes of Tombstone Canyon in the Mule Mountains, so all the buildings seem to be one on top of the other. Steep staircases, tucked in between store fronts on Main Street and elsewhere, ascend to the various apartments and homes, offering some great views of the area. Each year, Bisbee celebrates its crumbling staircases with the Bisbee 1000 Great Stair Climb, a run/walk held on the third Saturday in October.

We didn’t know much about Bisbee, other than it being a former-mining-camp-turned-artist’s-colony, but we met some friendly locals who were happy to tell us a bit about the town, including where to eat and where to get a free espresso. (The folks at Old Bisbee Roasters set up a booth Thursday-Saturday in Peddler’s Alley on Main St., where they hand out free shots and sell bags of their freshly roasted, small-farm coffee. Jill with HPSilver is usually there too, selling some nice jewelry.)

Founded as a mining camp in 1880, Bisbee was one of the richest mineral sites in the world, with more than eight billion pounds of copper, and almost three million ounces of gold in its hillsides. By the early 1900s, Bisbee was the largest city between St. Louis and San Francisco, boasting some 20,000 residents.

After the mines closed in the 1970s, the population plummeted, and several artist types – attracted by the abundant and affordable housing – moved in, breathing new life into the old town. But its history remains ever present around you. The Lavender Pit, a huge hole in the ground where copper was mined, lies just east of downtown, and there are several opportunities to learn about Bisbee’s history. One of the most popular activities is to take the Queen Mine Tour ($13 for adults), but there is a lot of fun stuff to see and do above ground as well, with galleries, antique stores, coffee shops and small eateries lining the narrow streets. Below are some of our favorites.

Galleries

Belleza Fine Art Gallery
Owned and operated by the Renaissance House, a local, nonprofit substance abuse treatment center for homeless women and children, Belleza Fine Art Gallery features beautiful art you can feel good about buying, with 100 percent of the gallery’s profits benefiting the center. The gallery features the work of over 20 local and national artists as well as a line of Adirondack Garden Furniture, made by women at the Renaissance House, who receive the profits from the sales. 27 Main St.

Red Earth Gallery
Owner Pud Franzblau displays his hand-printed color photographs, primarily, of the American Southwest. His collection includes beautiful landscapes, slot canyons and ancient rock art, all photographed using only available light. 67 Main St.

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Where to Eat

The Savory Spot $

This is where the locals go for down-home, low cost, good food. Menu items include the basics – breakfast, burgers and sandwiches. Sit inside or out on a nice, enclosed patio. Their hours are 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sunday-Wednesday and 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 105 Tombstone Canyon

Bisbee Breakfast Club $
Located in Lowell, a township of Bisbee, the BBC was featured in Gourmet Magazine and is a favorite of both locals and visitors. They have a ton of breakfast items, which are available until close, as well as a variety of salads, sandwiches and burgers, not to mention delicious desserts. They are open 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Thursday through Monday. 75 Erie St.

High Desert Market and Café $
Lots of businesses around here are only open a few days a week, but the High Desert Market and Café is open 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. every day. Their menu includes fresh baked goods, gourmet salads and sandwiches, and an ever-changing dinner menu. They also have a smoothie, juice and espresso bar, and a gourmet food and gifts market, where you can pick up some nice stuff to take home. 203 Tombstone Canyon

Cafe Roka$$
With gourmet food at reasonable prices (most entrees are under $20), Café Roka offers the best dining experience in Bisbee, said one local. Chef Rod Kass serves “modern American food,” including roasted duck and quail, pepper crusted pork tenderloin and several vegetarian dishes. Call ahead for their current hours. 35 Main St.

Where to Stay

The Shady Dell $
For a truly unique lodging experience, consider a stay at The Shady Dell, where you can rent one of their fully-restored vintage aluminum travel trailers, a 1947 Tiki Bus or a 1947 Chris Craft Yacht, depending on availability. Each space is decorated with mid-century furnishings and vintage appliances. And you can enjoy a retro lunch or dinner just a few feet away at Dot’s Diner. Rates start at $50. Dogs and children under the age of 10 are prohibited. (In addition to the rentals, the Shady Dell has a few spaces with full hookups for RV’s, $30, if your traveling with your own trailer.) 1 Douglas Rd.

The Inn At Castle Rock $$
First opened in the mid-1890s to accommodate the men working in the mines, the Inn at Castle Rock was recently renovated and reopened under new management. The new owners are friendly folks who have big plans for the historic property, which is within walking distance of downtown. Currently it features 14 themed rooms (we liked the Geronimo room), starting at $70 a night. Two of the rooms are pet-friendly. 112 Tombstone Canyon Rd.